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Slow Travel with Diarmaid Griffin

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Tóg go bog é

Diarmaid Griffin

The premise of slow travel is one that is gaining popularity across the world and it can be summarised by that old Irish phrase ‘tóg go bog é’ which translates to ‘take it easy’ or ‘take it softly’.

‘Bog’ is also a place and a Scots Gaelic/Irish Gaelic word that started to be used in the English language circa 1500. It means soft; which for those that have spent any time in the bog, makes perfect sense!

The majority of boglands in the Killarney area are Atlantic blanket bogs as like a blanket, they stretch over vast areas but are not particularly deep (2-7metres). These Atlantic boglands were formed in part by the regular, high rainfall that we get here on the west coast of Ireland. Mountain blanket bogs are found in our uplands (+200 metres above sea level) and are very similar in formation.

Boglands started to form here around 7,000 years ago and most formed around 4,000 years ago when our climate became wetter. This heavy rain, which we are all too familiar with, leached minerals from the soil over time. Amongst these minerals was iron, that washed down through the soil to form an iron pan. This pan became impermeable, so no water could escape from the surface. Waterlogging resulted and this prevented decomposition. Layers of organic material builds up, year on year, slowly accumulating over hundreds and thousands of years. This is partial decomposed vegetation that is now a carbon store and can give us an insight into the plants that grew here, thousands of years ago. Only a small amount of blanket bog exists in the world, with Ireland being the most important country in Europe for this habitat.

Boglands or peatlands are not only wet and soft but are low in nutrients, which poses a challenge to the plants that make this habitat their home. This environment has led to dramatic adaptations that are demonstrated by bog myrtle, sundew, and butterwort. Sundew and butterwort are two native plants of our boglands that survive by attracting and capturing insects. Consuming these protein rich insects provides these deadly plants with the nitrogen they need to live healthy and happy lives!

Bog myrtle, or sweet gale as it is otherwise known as, has a different strategy, one of cooperation and collaboration. It has nodules in its root system, that accommodate special bacteria that can take nitrogen from the air and ‘fix it’ to become nitrogen useful to the plant. The bacteria get a home and food, while the bog myrtle gets the nitrates that it so badly needs.

The most prolific grass of the uplands is called purple moor grass and it is this that causes the marked change of colour on our mountains and hills, from the green of summer to the brown of winter. Despite it being so successful, it too has its limits and decides to shut up shop for the winter. It dies back in winter, retreats into the ground and casts off its leaves just like our deciduous trees.

No article on boglands would be complete without mentioning sphagnum. This species of moss, like all mosses is a primitive plant, without a root system that relies on heavy rainfall in waterlogged habitats. It is so absorbent of liquid that it was used during World War 1 for absorbing blood. This important plant also has an antibacterial quality that make it a valuable resource for wounds. It is very important in the absorption of rain after heavy rainfall events, by acting like a sponge, thus preventing flooding further downstream. In fact, dried sphagnum can absorb 20 times its weight in liquid.

As spring slowly unfurls, why not take a walk in a bogland near you. If you don’t feel like an uphill trek, there are other options. The well signed Bog Walk that was established by Kilcummin Rural Development is open to the public and more details can be found on their Facebook page. Boglands are truly great places to ‘tóg go bog é’.

For more insights, or to join me on one of my tours, follow me on Instagram @slowtravelkerry or email me diarmaid@slowtravelkerry.ie.

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WEEK 14: Felicity’s Summer in Killarney

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WEEK 14
Felicity’s Summer in Killarney





Previously: Here on Dundag it was far easier to relax than anywhere else. They had a picnic blanket, some cold drinks and what felt like all the time in the world.

“I can’t believe I leave on Monday” Felicity said tiredly.

“Neither can I. This summer has flown. Tell me you have plans to come back sometime soon though? I don’t think Sheila and I can be as good of a mischief-making duo as me and you.”

Felicity had already spoken with her parents about her return to Killarney. “I’d like to come back for Halloween. Who knows, with my apprenticeship you may be seeing a lot more of me.”

Felicity glanced at Jack, who was looking far out over the lake. “That wouldn’t be so bad.” He paused. “There’s loads of things to do in Kerry around Halloween. There are countless events and festivals in the surrounding towns and parishes.”

“That would be nice. I love Halloween, it would be great to see how ye do it down here.” A few years ago she and her friends had run a school scare event in Dublin, for TYs and above only. It had been some of the best fun they’d had in school together.

“It’s going to be really strange not having you just around the corner anymore. I’ve gotten so used to showing up at Sheila’s and you being there.”

Knowing that her friends were going to miss her so much made Felicity’s chest twist. She knew that Auntie Sheila wasn’t looking forward to her leaving either. “At least I’ll be back soon. You’ll be seeing me off of the train before you can blink.”

“Yeah, I can’t wait.”

A few hours passed before Felicity and Jack returned to Hedgerow Place. Jack dropped her off at the door, promising to meet her at the bus station tomorrow to see her off. Felicity trudged towards the door morosely.

Auntie Sheila met her on the other side with a sad smile. “Hopefully you’ll be back soon poppet. I suppose for now you should probably pack.”

Felicity nodded and made her way upstairs. She entered the spare room , her room now, really. Auntie Sheila had offered her it permanently if she were to get her apprenticeship. That would be a dream come true, to live in Killarney and have something as exciting as an apprenticeship to work on.

Felicity packed slowly. She let herself daydream about what her life could look like, and how easy it would be to sink into it. Thoughts of coming back here, to a room that was fully hers circled around her head. Felicity looked around her room as she slowly progressed towards fitting her whole summer into just the two small suitcases and backpack that she had come to Killarney with.

It felt like her experiences were too big, too meaningful to pack away with her. Too much had happened this summer to pack it all away. The only solace, Felicity thought, was that she had to go so that she could come back again.

The Bus
Now she was standing once more at Killarney Bus Station, waiting to get the Expressway back to Cork before the next leg to Dublin. Auntie Sheila and Jack both stood nearby waiting to see her off.

Felicity had spent the last few days packing, reminiscing on her time in Killarney as if it were years ago, and had not started a mere three months previously. The adventures she’d had and the friends she made were all so different from what she knew in Dublin. It almost felt like going back to the city was going back to a different world, a different life.

“You have to stay in touch,” Jack said with a frown. “And I will hold you to your promise to come back at Halloween. We have to go to some of the Halloween events. I know it’s a trek down but it will be faster by train.”

Felicity didn’t know why her parents had booked her a bus down and back and not the train, but she was almost thankful for the extra travel time on the way back. It would take all of it and more to acclimatise back into her old life.

When the bus arrived, Jack helped her stow her luggage in the undercarriage. It was with a heavy heart and tearful eyes that she hugged them both goodbye. Felicity promised both to them and to herself that she would be back for Halloween, even if she didn’t get her apprenticeship, she would make the time around her college schedule to visit. God, she should have applied for college in Killarney. If only she had known what it was like when she was filling out her CAO.

Felicity trudged up the steps onto the bus. She hadn’t missed how cramped the seats were. The train would undoubtedly be the better option for her return.

She turned and waved at Jack and Auntie Sheila as the bus pulled out of its berth. She could see Auntie Sheila smiling up at her. Something her aunt had told her the night before swirled around in her head. “It doesn’t matter that you’re leaving now,” she had said, “because you’ve been to Killarney once, and now there will always be a home for you here.”

Summer in Killarney had been transformative, to say the least. The bus went around the Daly’s roundabout and travelled down the hill towards Cork. Felicity looked longingly at the turn to Woodlawn Road as they trundled by. Killarney, and Auntie Sheila’s little house on Hedgerow Place, had snuck its way into her heart. Felicity was going to miss it. She couldn’t wait to come back again.

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Frustration mounts over morning gridlock at Coolcorcoran

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Frustration mounts over morning gridlock at Coolcorcoran


Mounting traffic gridlock at the Coolcorcoran junction onto the N22 Killarney Bypass is causing daily delays for commuters, with local motorists calling on Killarney Municipal District and elected representatives to take immediate action.


Early morning traffic coming from the Tralee side has become severely backed up past BG Motors during the peak 8.15am commute.
Motorists attempting to enter the bypass from the Coolcorcoran side face long queues and increasing frustration as they struggle to join the main road.
Local drivers point to a specific design issue at the exit, where a raised kerb and a section of unused footpath prevent left-turning vehicles from merging smoothly into the traffic flow.
Road users are requesting a simple layout modification to resolve the bottleneck: converting the exit to left-turn only, removing the kerb obstruction, and directing driver traffic to loop via a U-turn at the Killarney Sports and Leisure Centre roundabout. Similar left-turn measures were previously implemented at the nearby Lewis Road junction to improve safety and traffic flow.
The request comes as broader plans for the N22 bypass upgrade and new link road infrastructure remain under progression by Kerry County Council and Transport Infrastructure Ireland.
Motorists wishing to share their views on local road issues can email info@killarneyadvertiser.ie.

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